The runway’s secret: how makeup artists are engineering a ‘doll-like’ lash look
That infuriatingly perfect, almost unnaturally glossy lash look you’ve seen dominating runways – the one instantly reminiscent of Holly Golightly or Allie – isn’t about spontaneity. It’s a calculated, meticulously constructed illusion, and it’s being engineered by a new generation of makeup artists.
Deconstructing the drama: the clumped lash trend
Forget the effortless ‘wet lash’ aesthetic of a few seasons ago. The current iteration, championed by brands like Dior and YSL, embraces a deliberate, almost hyper-real clumpiness. Cindy-Paula Rodriguez, a leading makeup artist, describes it as “giving a doll-like look to the eyes,” a statement that speaks volumes about the trend’s specific intention – to evoke a sense of stylized beauty, bordering on the deliberately artificial. This isn’t about mimicking a natural lash; it’s about amplifying the effect, creating a heightened, almost fantastical expression.
The shift, Rodriguez notes, began with Christian Dior’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection, a pivotal moment for the house that utilized bold, deliberately clumped lashes to project a strong, yet feminine, narrative. It’s a tactic that’s been refined and amplified, moving beyond a simple wet effect to a more pronounced, sculptural approach.
Achieving this isn’t about complicated artistry; it’s about strategic application. The key is a lengthening black mascara – think Ere Perez Natural Aloe Gel Lash + Brow Mascara – combined with a pair of tweezers. The process begins with a standard mascara application, then involves gently gathering the lash ends in small, controlled sections, ensuring they remain wet during the process. Strategic placement, starting at the outer corners of the eye, and a slight deviation from perfectly aligned lashes add to the overall impact. A final, almost imperceptible touch – a spritz of clear mascara or a tiny amount of moisturizer – catches the light and further enhances the illusion of wetness.
The star studded inspiration
Zendaya, Dua Lipa, Sarah Pidgeon, Selena Gomez, and Amelia Gray have all embraced this look, showcasing its versatility across various aesthetics. The investment? A strategic application of products like the Victoria Beckham Beauty Vast Lash Mascara ($35) or the YSL Beauty Lash Latex Lengthening & Sculpting Mascara ($34). And for a budget-friendly option, the L’Oréal Paris Telescopic Mascara is delivering serious impact for just $12.
The takeaway isn’t about chasing a fleeting trend; it’s about understanding the underlying mechanics of visual persuasion. It’s a performance, meticulously crafted, designed to capture attention and, ultimately, to sell.