Euphoria's grown-up glam: luxury fashion signals a shift

The teens of Euphoria are no longer teens. As the HBO series returns next week, five years have passed, and the characters’ lives – and wardrobes – have undergone a significant, and increasingly luxe, evolution. Forget the glitter and angst of high school hallways; we're entering a world of Hollywood ambition, art school introspection, and, notably, a construction site where someone seems to be sporting over $12,000 worth of Bottega Veneta.

The bottega question: authenticity or access?

The immediate online frenzy surrounding Nate Jacobs (Jacob Elordi) clad in look six from Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection – originally modeled by Kate Moss – was understandable. The incongruity of a high-end leather ensemble on a construction site is… jarring. Is it a commentary? A deliberate juxtaposition, as director Sam Levinson seems to favor? Or, more realistically, a byproduct of Elordi's ambassadorship with the brand?

The latter appears more likely than a candid moment of off-duty construction work. Contractual requirements for talent to wear specific brands in a show are rare, unless the brand is deeply involved in production. Instead, it’s a clear indication of Elordi's close relationship with Bottega, a privilege afforded to those at a certain level of cultural cachet.

Beyond labels: the evolution of aesthetic storytelling

Euphoria's fashion has always been a critical component of its narrative. Costume designer Heidi Bivens, who masterfully crafted the series’ initial aesthetic, explored each character’s identity through clothing, a process she details in the recently published Euphoria Fashion. But with Bivens’ departure for season three, a shift towards overt luxury feels almost inevitable. The show has never shied away from labels; Lexi Howard’s Miu Miu-clad intellectualism, Maddy’s Dior and Chanel ensembles, even Rue’s vintage designer finds—all served as character markers.

This season, however, marks a more pronounced embrace of high-end aesthetics. Levinson, in a conversation with Balenciaga creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and Vogue, championed the power of juxtaposition, stating, “If someone is dressed up in a space that is dressed down, for instance, there’s humor to it.” This philosophy, combined with Balenciaga’s recent collaboration with Levinson, suggests a deliberate strategy to blur the lines between fantasy and reality, and to leverage the show’s influence within the fashion landscape.

The business of aspiration: why brands are betting on euphoria

Louise Yems, strategy director at The Digital Fairy, notes that Euphoria’s success lies in its “social lore,” creating a powerful and engaged fandom. The show’s impressive viewership – second only to Game of Thrones on HBO – and the explosive trailer views underscore the sustained interest in the series. While Gen Z may not be the primary purchasers of luxury goods, their influence on cultural trends and their ability to spark online conversations are invaluable to brands.

As evidenced by the $949,000 in media impact value (MIV) generated by Jacob Elordi’s Bottega Veneta looks in just three days following the trailer launch, the show’s ability to drive buzz is undeniable. It’s a more potent form of engagement than traditional red carpet appearances, offering brands a direct line to a coveted demographic.

Costumes, not product placement: a nuance of style

While some have questioned the authenticity of seeing the Euphoria cast in luxury garments, fashion trends editor Katie Devlin points out that these pieces are functioning as “costume design rather than explicit brand placement.” The focus is on selecting items that contribute to the show’s overall aesthetic, rather than overt brand promotion. It’s a subtle but crucial distinction.

The shift signifies more than just a wardrobe upgrade; it reflects a coming-of-age narrative. Just as season two’s clothing mirrored the cast’s evolving trajectories, season three promises a similar transformation, with Maddy moving beyond bodycons to embrace a more sophisticated, Haider Ackermann-esque aesthetic, and Cassie swapping pastels for silk robes. Ultimately, the characters' clothing serves as a visual shorthand for their experiences, ambitions, and the complexities of navigating adulthood—a narrative that continues to captivate audiences and influence the broader cultural conversation.