Milan and florence pulse with new designer energy
The Italian fashion calendar just got a jolt. Pitti Uomo and Milan Fashion Week Men’s are welcoming a lineup of high-profile guest designers this season, injecting a fresh dose of creativity into events grappling with ongoing supply chain snags and retail headwinds. It's a moment of strategic optimism for an industry navigating significant shifts.
A dual focus: florence and milan
Pitti Uomo, celebrating its 110th edition in Florence from June 16-19, will showcase over 720 brands, 48% hailing from international markets. Under the direction of new CEO Ivano Cauli, the fair embraces a ‘swimming pool’ theme—a conceptual installation meant to represent a “spring of talent” and a necessary plunge into an uncertain future.
Cauli’s recent remarks underscore the challenges: Italy has seen 26,000 multi-brand stores close in the last five years, and the menswear market has dipped 1.7% from 2024 to 2025. Yet, Pitti perseveres, understanding its crucial role as a hub for brands to assess market realities and chart a viable course forward. The fair’s strength lies in its ability to connect brands with suppliers and anticipate trends.
The highlight of Pitti? Simone Rocha’s debut menswear show on Friday evening. Vogue’s Luke Leitch predicts a continuation of the Adidas collaboration teased in her London show, noting the potential for an extended exploration of Rocha’s menswear vision within the Florentine setting.
Beyond Rocha, expect innovative presentations from DSM Kei Ninomiya (Noir Kei Ninomiya) and Jiyong Kim, the latter's sun-bleached garments offering a compellingly anti-technological aesthetic. Bruce Pask of Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus highlights the importance of these guest designers, alongside the return of established favorites like Brunello Cucinelli and Stefano Ricci.
Milan’s theatrical turn
Milan Fashion Week Men’s, running parallel to Pitti, boasts 16 runway shows and 44 presentations, promising a vibrant mix of established houses and emerging talent. Thom Browne makes his Milan menswear debut on June 22, bringing a familiar theatricality to the typically refined Italian scene. And, as promised, Ralph Lauren returns for a menswear show combining its Purple Label and Polo lines—a move that signals a long-term commitment to the Italian market.
Young-Su Kim, of Bergdorf Goodman, emphasizes the significance of Ralph Lauren’s return, noting its “cultural relevance” in interpreting the concept of ‘prep.’ Prada's collection, always a key moment, will reveal Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ aesthetic direction for the season, influencing subsequent womenswear collections. Zegna, however, will present a special show in Los Angeles.
The broader narrative, according to CNMI President Carlo Capasa, is one of increasing fluidity. Milan’s menswear week is now seen as the first chapter of a larger fashion story, with many brands presenting co-ed collections in September, blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear.
Beyond the runway spectacle, Milan’s strength remains its intimate tailoring presentations, tucked away in historic palazzos. Kiton, Brioni, and Tod’s consistently deliver exceptional craftsmanship and ambiance—experiences that solidify Milan’s position as a menswear capital. The inclusion of emerging brands like Garcias, Martin Quad, and Shinyakozuka further enriches the scene, demonstrating a commitment to nurturing new talent.
While some have questioned the streamlined nature of Milan’s menswear calendar in recent years, the current lineup—a carefully curated selection of established and emerging voices—suggests a return to form. As Luke Leitch observes, “this is a mindful menswear calendar designed for the cognoscenti.”