Paul smith’s foundation fuels fashion design with studio spaces and strategic partnerships

The Fashion industry’s next generation is getting a serious boost thanks to Paul Smith’s Foundation, which this week unveiled a new initiative designed to cultivate resilience and propel emerging designers forward.

Martha mosse on the foundation’s mission and the latest creative collaborations

Speaking with Martha Mosse, director of the Foundation, it’s clear their approach is far from superficial. The organization established in 2020 is laser-focused on providing critical support – studio space, mentorship, and crucially, pathways to commercial viability – to Fashion designers. This year’s Fashion Residency program, in partnership with the Mayor of London, Projekt, British GQ, and the City of London Corporation, offers six designers a coveted 18-month stint at Smithfield, London, alongside intensive business skills training.

“We’re essentially building a safety net for creatives,” Mosse explained, “helping them navigate the complexities of running a brand, from legal frameworks to e-commerce marketing.” A key element of this support is a recent collaboration with Tate Galleries, spearheaded by three resident designers – Paolo Carzana, Karoline Vitto, and Yaku – who have created an exclusive T-shirt collection launching April 23rd.

A bridge between art and commerce

The partnership, Mosse emphasized, isn't simply a marketing exercise. “It’s about giving them the opportunity to respond creatively to art in a way that makes sense for their brand,” she said. “But it’s also a commercial project; they are being compensated for their participation.” The program meticulously guides designers through every stage – commissioning, Tate review, factory production – offering invaluable experience.

One of the most sought-after sessions, according to Mosse, has been the legal component, facilitated by Osborne Clarke, who are providing a minimum of 30 hours of pro bono support. “Copyright law is particularly opaque,” she noted, “and it’s a crucial area we’re addressing alongside the designers.”

The Foundation’s commitment extends beyond immediate support. They're actively seeking new buildings to accommodate their growing cohort, currently housed at a newly developed studio space in Liverpool Street, a significant investment by Travelodge. “Studio space is incredibly expensive and hard to find,” Mosse stated, “so we're proactively securing locations and building relationships to ensure our support is sustainable.”

Navigating the creative reset

Looking beyond the immediate program, Mosse highlighted the BFC’s new strategy under CEO Laura Weir, praising the increased focus on support and the realistic metrics outlined. “It’s encouraging to see that level of detail,” she said. “We want to build robust businesses with achievable goals.”

Notably, the Foundation’s approach eschews the relentless cycle of creative turnover often seen in Fashion. “We talk about starting strong, growing gently, and avoiding the urge to scale too quickly,” Mosse advised. “The designers we support often receive significant attention, which can create expectations that are difficult to meet. It's about taking a measured approach.” Paul Smith himself, still holding 80% ownership of his brand after 56 years, serves as a powerful example of sustainable success.

Ai and the future of design

When asked about the role of Artificial Intelligence, Mosse acknowledged its growing influence. “Harri, one of our current cohorts, is experimenting with Cloud3D for pattern cutting,” she revealed. “While they retain handcrafted elements, AI is accelerating their design process. The conversation around 'AI slop' is real – much of what’s generated isn't truly innovative – but the key is understanding copyright law, an area that’s still evolving and requires constant vigilance.”

“Make sure you’re informed,” Mosse concluded, “and be vocal about anything that doesn’t seem right. The Foundation’s work isn’t just about providing studio space; it’s about equipping the next generation of designers with the business acumen and legal knowledge they need to thrive.”