Schiaparelli's surrealist revival: a triumph at the v&a

Elsa Schiaparelli’s influence on fashion isn't a rediscovery; it’s a revelation, especially as evidenced by the stunning exhibition, Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, now at the Victoria & Albert Museum. While Daniel Roseberry’s contemporary interpretations have rightfully garnered attention, this show offers a vital, immersive look at the singular vision of the original, and it’s a masterclass in how to present fashion as a profound cultural artifact.

A salon reimagined

The exhibition begins with an immediate sense of transport. Visitors are greeted by a life-size recreation of Schiaparelli's 21 Place Vendôme salon, complete with a glimpse through ruffled net curtains, evoking the exclusivity and creative energy of her atelier. Newspaper clippings from 1935, showcasing her groundbreaking designs alongside Women’s Wear Daily headlines, underscore her disruptive innovation. A trio of sweaters, knitted by Armenian women and featuring trompe l’oeil scarves – the work that initially catapulted her to fame – stand as early exemplars of her playful genius.

But it’s the Ruth Ford dress, revealed through an arched opening, that truly stops the breath. This sheath of black jersey, padded with startling bone formations based on sketches by Salvador Dalí, feels disconcertingly modern, a testament to Schiaparelli’s ability to anticipate trends decades ahead of her time. Dalí’s own words—