Shanghai fashion week unmasks a curious shift: tailoring trades tailcoats for tracksuits

Tight green sweaters, furry shoulder pads, and buckled kiltie loafers were just a few of the pieces seen on male models at Shushu/Tong’s Shanghai Fashion Week show this season. But for the traditionally feminine brand, this didn’t mark a targeted expansion into the men’s market.

A boys’ clothes rebellion: shushu/tong's unexpected twist

“It’s not actually menswear, it’s boys wearing girls’ clothes,” founder Liushu ‘Shushu’ Lei said backstage. “The menswear [side of the business] is still very small.” The brand’s strategy, a deliberate subversion of expectations, highlights a deeper trend within China’s increasingly complex Fashion landscape.

For brands struggling to capture male consumer attention, adding a few men’s looks can offer a surprisingly effective boost, acting as a low-risk entry point while preserving profit margins. As male shoppers increasingly bypass domestic designers in favor of established sportswear giants and global brands, the local menswear sector often finds itself struggling to maintain relevance. “It’s a pretty difficult time for menswear,” says Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development at ENG Concept Store. “[Well-known] European brands like Our Legacy dominate the market, which makes it tougher [for local labels to compete].”

The streetwear void and the rise of leisure

The core issue? A significant shift away from streetwear, now largely superseded by leisurewear and ‘gorpcore’ – a combination of technical outdoor gear and comfortable, functional clothing. Arcteryx, Salomon, and Lululemon have become de facto status symbols amongst China’s burgeoning middle class, collectively known as the