The peacock effect: why luxury men’s fashion is finally looking beyond gen z
Florence’s Pitti Uomo trade fair revealed a striking sight: the ‘Pitti peacocks’ – a cluster of influencers, brand founders, and seasoned buyers, overwhelmingly representing Gen X and baby boomer generations. But beneath the stylish tailoring and jaunty hats lies a crucial shift in the luxury menswear market, one that demands a serious rethink.
A generation overlooked – and overvalued
For years, brands chased the fleeting trends of Gen Z, obsessed with influencer collaborations and social media activations, fueled by the premise of segmenting consumers by generation. Now, as aspirational spending cools and streetwear’s momentum wanes, the market is belatedly recognizing the significant purchasing power—and enduring loyalty—of older men. This isn’t a simple demographic shift; it’s a fundamental recalibration of strategy.
According to Kantar’s Bia Bezamat, “Fashion often optimizes for Gen Z attention, not necessarily for long-term value or loyalty. But Gen Xs and baby boomers already account for more than a quarter of global spending, so there’s a big mismatch between where brands are focusing their attention and where purchasing power actually sits.” McKinsey’s 2025 luxury outlook identifies affluent consumers over 50—the ‘silver spenders’—as a major growth engine, contributing 48% of global spending growth. This demographic exhibits greater brand loyalty, decisiveness, and a resistance to short-term trend cycles than their younger counterparts.
The rise of the ‘silver spender’
Brands like Brunello Cucinelli, Zegna, and Loro Piana have long understood this, casting older men in campaigns and runway shows, strategically positioning themselves as intergenerational labels. Zegna’s partnership with Mads Mikkelsen, a 60-year-old actor, exemplifies this approach – a deliberate move to broaden their appeal. However, many other luxury houses are lagging, prioritizing millennial and Gen Z marketing to the detriment of this untapped resource.
“The people buying the products are not the people that these brands are marketing to,” notes menswear consultant Nick Wooster. “Shopping with intention” is key. Hirofumi Kurino, a pioneering figure in Japanese Fashion, has shifted his focus towards experiences, demonstrating a preference for quality, craftsmanship, and personal connection. He’s not alone; Gen X and baby boomer men prioritize personalized service, classic pieces, and a history of enduring brands. They aren't swayed by fleeting trends, but by the enduring quality and legacy of a product.
Beyond the hype: authentic engagement
While social media remains important, the mature menswear consumer demands more than just digital buzz. They crave authentic experiences, IRL shopping, and a genuine connection with the brands they choose. As Bruce Pask, Associate VP of Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, succinctly puts it, “They’re less interested in chasing trends and more drawn to pieces that feel personal and lasting.” Brands that respect their intelligence, communicate clearly, and offer seamless retail experiences will undoubtedly reap the rewards. Luxury is evolving, and older men are setting the tone—a quiet, powerful shift that’s reshaping the industry.