Sicilian women forge new lives, one couscous bowl at a time

A cacophony of Arabic and Italian chatter fills a small Sicilian kitchen, where more than a dozen women – migrants from North Africa and locals – are meticulously crafting a mountain of steaming couscous. This isn’t just a meal; it’s a testament to resilience, integration, and a shared heritage.

From tunisian fishermen’s wives to culinary pioneers

Nestled in Salemi, a town reclaimed from the grip of the mafia, Al Ciliegio’s ‘Progetto Donna’ – a decade-long initiative – offers a lifeline to these women. What began as a simple exchange of recipes and language skills has blossomed into a thriving community, proving that Food can be a powerful catalyst for social change.

‘It’s like a wedding in Tunisia!’ explains Salha Zaouali, a young woman with striking blue eyes, as she expertly scrapes the fluffy couscous into a massive bowl. “There, all the women always make couscous together.” The atmosphere is vibrant, a tangible blend of cultures, as women share stories and laughter amidst the rhythmic chopping of potatoes and onions.

A legacy of skill, a future of independence

The project’s origins lie in the decades-long migration of Tunisian fishermen to Sicily. Initially, wives followed their husbands, seeking a new life. Now, the project has expanded, welcoming over 100 women, each bringing their unique culinary traditions and skills. ‘Over time, we’ve had more than 100 women here,’ says Giusy Agueli, the project’s coordinator. ‘They acquired their skills here and then put those skills to use in their daily lives.’

But the journey hasn’t been easy. Initially, women needed their husbands’ permission to participate. Today, the dynamic has shifted. ‘Now it’s changing,’ Agueli notes. ‘The women who have been here longer are teaching the newcomers that they don’t need to ask. You can decide for yourself.’ The initiative empowers women to not just survive, but to thrive, fostering a sense of self-reliance and community.

Reclaiming a town, rebuilding lives

Al Ciliegio itself is a remarkable story. The property, confiscated from the mafia after a decade of government ownership, is now a testament to social rehabilitation. “They said that if you want to find the mafia, you need to follow the money,” explains Vito Puccio, president of the Fondazione San Vito Onlus, which oversees the project. “This place was built with money made by the mafia. So the government seized the property.”

Today, the agriturismo operates as a vibrant hub, producing traditional Sicilian cuisine using organically sourced ingredients. From the fragrant rosemary and wild fennel growing outside the kitchen door to the citrus trees bearing fruit, Al Ciliegio is a microcosm of Sicily’s rich cultural tapestry. The menu is a celebration of shared heritage: panelle, caponata, and a dizzying array of Tunisian sweets like zouza and honey-glazed fritters.

A shared table, a shared future

Amna Said, a steadfast presence in the kitchen, reflects on her time in Sicily. “I’m not currently employed,” she says with a quiet dignity. “My husband is a fisherman, and I joined him here.” Her story, like those of the other women, embodies the spirit of resilience and the pursuit of a brighter future. As the women serve lunch – a medley of Tunisian chickpea dips and Sicilian specialties – a profound sense of connection permeates the air. ‘You have to try this—it’s filled with chocolate cream,’ Amna offers, gesturing to a decadent dessert.

More than just a restaurant, Al Ciliegio is a symbol of integration, a place where cultural exchange isn’t just tolerated, but actively celebrated. It’s a reminder that in a world increasingly divided, building bridges through Food and community can be a truly transformative endeavor.