Runway exclusion plummets: fashion's body image problem deepens

The Fall/Winter 2026 fashion shows delivered a stark message: size inclusivity is fading, not flourishing. A new report reveals a significant drop in runway representation, raising serious questions about the industry’s commitment to reflecting the diversity of its consumer base.

The numbers don't lie: a concerning trend

Data from Vogue Business shows a disheartening regression. Across 182 shows and presentations, a staggering 97.6% of looks featured straight-size models (US 0-4). Mid-size models (US 6-12) accounted for a mere 2.1%, while plus-size models (US 14+) were virtually absent, representing only 0.3% of all looks. This marks the lowest level of size inclusivity seen in three years of tracking.

Hollie Schliftman, casting director for Christian Siriano’s show—a relative bright spot in New York—points to a cyclical nature within the industry. “At times, it can feel like size inclusivity is treated as a moment or a trend, rather than a permanent shift,” she explains. The aspiration inherent in fashion should, she argues, align with the reality of the women purchasing the clothes. “Most women are not a size 0 or 2; that’s a fundamental truth the industry seems determined to ignore.”

Creative control and production realities

Casting directors, positioned between brands, stylists, models, and agents, have a clear view of the underlying dynamics. Emma Matell, who cast shows like Lueder and Cecilie Bahnsen, notes the increased visibility of runways thanks to live streams. “Back in the day, the fashion industry operated with its own opaque standards. Now, those standards are broadcast to a global audience.”

But the power ultimately rests with creative directors, and logistical constraints often dictate casting choices. Many collections are developed in standard sample sizes with tight timelines, leaving little room for accommodating a wider range of body types.