Runway regression: size inclusivity vanishes as brands embrace thinness
Three years ago, Vogue Business launched its Size Inclusivity report with a hopeful premise: a prominent fashion title holding a mirror to the industry might nudge brands toward representing a wider range of bodies. The reality, as revealed by the latest data, is starkly different: size inclusivity isn't just stagnant; it’s actively retreating, with the runway increasingly dominated by an unrealistic and exclusionary standard of thinness.
The numbers don't lie: a three-year decline
Our analysis of seven seasons of Size Inclusivity reports shows a troubling trend. The proportion of straight-size (US 0-4) models has peaked this season, now accounting for a staggering 97.6% of runway appearances—a two-percentage-point increase since Fall/Winter 2023. Simultaneously, mid-size representation (US 6-12) has plummeted from 3.8% to a mere 2.1%, and plus-size models (US 14+) have seen their representation halved, falling from 0.6% to 0.3%. The most recent season, Fall/Winter 2026, marks the lowest point for plus-size representation since we began tracking diversity.
Those fleeting moments of progress in Spring/Summer 2024 and 2025, when mid-size and plus-size models saw a brief uptick, now appear as anomalies, rather than signs of lasting change. The prevalence of stretchy dresses – an easier sample for brands to accommodate across sizes – partially explains these temporary peaks, highlighting a superficial approach to inclusivity.
Beyond the runway: a culture shift
The decline isn't simply a matter of aesthetics; it reflects a broader cultural shift. While we initially launched the report without anticipating the seismic changes to come, the rise of conservatism, the obsession with GLP-1 drugs impacting body size, and the pervasive “looksmashing” trend – the pursuit of radical self-optimization – have all converged to create an environment where thinness is not only accepted but actively celebrated, and where size inclusivity is viewed as an afterthought at best.
The shift is palpable. Gasps can be heard in audiences as exceptionally thin models pass by, and media coverage following award shows now frequently focuses on skeletal frames rather than the clothes they wear. Meanwhile, we witness the surreal spectacle of fake curves projected onto t-shirts or sculpted into second-skin garments—a desperate attempt to mimic diversity without actually embracing it. Brands, when contacted for comment, often remain silent.
Tokenism and the gap between runway and retail
As a mid-size woman (US 6-8), I recognize the relative privilege of having options. However, working within the industry provides a stark view of the disconnect between runway representation and the reality of sizing availability. The average US woman wears a size 16-18, squarely in the plus-size category, yet the industry's definition of “inclusive” remains woefully inadequate.
Our reporting reveals a pattern of tokenism: brands momentarily feature a single mid-size or plus-size model to boost their rankings, only to fail to produce a single garment that actually fits someone at the higher end of the mid-size range or within the plus-size bracket. Brands who prioritize creating clothes for a wider range of bodies express frustration with this superficial approach. Consumer research reinforces this sentiment: nearly half (48%) of respondents feel pressure to lose weight, citing sizing challenges as a primary driver.
The bond street disconnect
To illustrate this disparity, I visited several luxury retailers on Bond Street in London. One leading label’s website claims to offer sizes up to a US 20, yet the flagship store stocked only up to a US 12. While sales assistants offered to order larger sizes for clients, this underscores the disconnect between online promises and in-store reality.
Abisola Omole, known as ‘Abi Marvel,’ conducts her own crucial research, documenting her experiences as a US 16-18 in luxury stores. She emphasizes that while many brands do offer larger sizes, they are often relegated to the back, creating an exclusionary atmosphere. Marvel’s approach—booking appointments and proactively seeking out available sizes—highlights the lengths plus-size consumers must go to in order to find clothing that fits.
The data is clear: the fashion industry’s representation problem extends far beyond the runway. We will continue to refine and enhance our Size Inclusivity report at Vogue Business, but the responsibility for change ultimately lies with the brands themselves. Their continued pursuit of an unattainable ideal, while ignoring the vast majority of consumers, is not a trend; it’s a failure.