Resort season: fashion’s secret pilgrimage to the states
Every January through March, the fashion world descends into a frenetic, almost ritualistic scramble – a deluge of runway shows showcasing menswear and couture in Milan and Paris, followed by a predictable American reprise. But beyond the meticulously curated presentations, lies a quietly persistent tradition: the resort collection.
A history of coastal commerce
The ‘resort’ show, or ‘cruise,’ as it was once more commonly known, isn’t a new phenomenon. It began in the early 20th century, fueled by European clientele seeking seasonal wardrobes to complement their extended stays in destinations like Deauville and Biarritz. Coco Chanel, a shrewd businesswoman, recognized this burgeoning market, launching her jersey sportswear and establishing boutiques that catered specifically to this demographic – a precursor to the lavish, aspirational trips we see today.
Initially, these collections offered simply “beach pajamas,” a euphemism for lightweight fabrics and breezy silhouettes designed for the sun and sea. But as leisure Travel became increasingly accessible throughout the latter half of the 20th century, the window of opportunity for these off-season offerings expanded exponentially. It became a strategic marketing maneuver – a way to stock the racks between the fall and summer lines, capitalizing on the global demand for chic getaways.
Chanel’s return to Biarritz for its 2027 resort show – a testament to this enduring legacy – highlights the deep roots of this practice. The evolution is stark: what once prioritized open-toed sandals and airy fabrics now frequently showcases more assertive, conceptually driven designs. This season, the trend is decidedly transatlantic.
Jonathan Anderson at Christian Dior, Demna at Gucci, and Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton are all diverting their creative energies to the U.S., signaling a significant shift. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Big Apple, and now, even Paris – these locations are becoming the de facto staging grounds for the most coveted collections of the season. Forget the cobblestones of Cannes; the buzz is decidedly Brooklyn.
The scale is markedly different. Resort shows aren’t merely presentations; they’re orchestrated experiences – lavish productions often surpassing the intensity of the regular ready-to-wear season. Consider Chanel’s 2017 show in Cuba, a historic moment that provided U.S. visitors with their first glimpse of the island nation in decades. The spectacle, the location, the sheer investment – it’s all part of the carefully cultivated mystique. And the price? Increasingly, it’s measured not just in dollars, but in Instagrammable moments.”n